Thursday, August 5, 2010

Rome vs. Istanbul

For my comparative analysis of Rome and Istanbul, I decided to chose two of the most ancient and perhaps notable sites from both cities:  the Pantheon and Hagia Sophia.  In my mind, both of these ancient Roman sites are important for their changing historical roles and their importance as landmarks.  I think these sites represent much of the history of both cities and provide a valuable source of insight for historical and artistic comparison.
The Pantheon in and of itself is an amazing feat of physical design and structural integrity.  It represents the Roman transition from Paganism to Christianity.  Additionally, it shows how Rome continues to live as a functioning modern day church.

Hagia Sophia is comparably a miracle of engineering and an ancient landmark of the Roman city of Constantinople of the modern city of Istanbul.  In contrast to the Pantheon, it represents the transition of Istanbul from a Christian city to a Muslim city to, now, a secular city.  Again, Hagia Sophia shows how a city has changed over time.

To me, there is an interesting cultural and social difference between the two cities—it’s in their mentality.  Both cities have their own personality which is deeply shaped by the mannerisms, customs, and beliefs of their peoples.  Rome is an old capital of wealth, power, fame, fortune, and importance.  It was the basis for the Roman Empire and still serves as the head of the Catholic Church.  A religion-power relationship flows through its veins.  In Pagan times, imperial power was worshiped and marked through elaborate and enormous displays of power—like Emperor Hadrian’s Pantheon.  As the city became the capital of Christendom, so did its famous buildings and landmarks.  Its people and politics were shaped by the church for over a thousand years.  Today that power is changing with a secularizing Italian nation and a reformed Catholic church which is focused more on spirituality than on politics.  And, this is apparent after a visit to the Pantheon, which has become more of a tourist headquarters than a site of pilgrimage and worship.  But, it is also a place where history lives—where Pagan symbols are still present, where the mass is still said, and where, everyday, a small crowd of the faithful still gather for worship.
Hagia Sophia is much the same.  Perhaps one of the most notable things about this now museum are the minarets towering high above the site.  From a distance, the ancient site looks like it only ever was a Mosque.  But, the history inside is indicative of the historical and artistic changes that took place over nearly two thousand years in one city with two names. Marking the transition from a bustling Christian Roman capital to a Muslim Ottoman sultanate to a modern secular Turkey, Hagia Sophia allows visitors from all around the world to look through a window on history.
Both sites are strikingly beautiful.  The first image shows the astounding concrete dome and oculus of the Pantheon and the second shows the scalloped brick and mortar structure of Hagia Sophia.  The vaulted coffers of the Pantheon are indicative of ancient Roman architecture, but are also important because they resemble what later became the basilica style domes of Christian churches.  The sheer size, weight, and volume of the Pantheon’s dome is also indicative of the importance of science and engineering in Roman design.

The second image shows the ornate interior of the once basilica, once mosque dome of Hagia Sophia.  This dome is indicative of these transitions because of the choice of artwork.  In contrast with the plain, elegant, simple Roman design; Hagia Sophia is artistically complex.  Originally decorated with Christian mosaics, these were covered up when the building was transitioned into a mosque and replaced with Arabic Quran verses. 

There are so many things to note about Istanbul and Rome that it would be impossible to describe all of these observations here or all of the ways in which these two structures embody and characterize these comparisons.  But, they should be admired for their historical significance, artistic importance, and modern day symbolism.  

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Castel Sant'Angelo




Castel Sant’Angelo
            Today, the imposing fortress that is Castel Sant’Angelo towers over the ancient City of Rome.  As a national museum, Castel Sant’Angelo has become a major tourist site and is home to an impressive collection of art and historical displays.  Because it is so large and prominent on the Roman skyline, Castel Sant’Angelo also serves as the perfect place to host fireworks displays, which has been a tradition since medieval times.  Castel Sant’Angelo is most noted however, for its changing historical role.
1:  Present Day View of the Castel by Night
            For nearly 2,000 years, this large edifice has occupied an important place in Roman life and has been part of the dynamics of nearly two millennia.  Known as the “Eternal City,” Rome has been a stage for the theatrics of empire and conquest, piety and pilgrimage, and conflict and modernity.  While it is not often prominently thought of as such, Castel Sant’Angelo is perhaps one of the most central architectural landmarks to the history and development of the Western world.  Since the times of imperial Rome to present, Castel Sant’Angelo has occupied several distinct periods of use and disuse, which are each historically significant.  Because of the relative brevity of this paper and the relative extensiveness of Roman history in which Castel Sant’Angelo is enveloped, I will provide a brief overview of themost significant historical periods involved in its evolution.  As such, I will attempt to explain the role it played during each time period in four distinct phases:  (i) the imperial origins of the site, (ii) the transitional period from the fall of Rome to the 1000s, (iii) the relationship between the Church and the castle, and, finally, (iv) a brief discussion of Castel Sant’Angelo since the 19th century.
Built in the first century by Roman Emperor Hadrian, the current structure of Castel Sant’Angelo on the banks of the Tiber River was originally intended to be a tomb.  While it would eventually become known as “Hadrian’s Mausoleum,” because it served as a burial site for a series of emperor’s after Hadrian, most historians agree that Hadrian probably meant it to be a “tomb” (a sephulcrum”) just for himself and his immediate family—not a full fledged “mausoleum.”  Hadrianeum then, as it might be more accurately called, was intended to preserve the name, legacy, and image of Hadrian.  While image and memory are constant themes for ancient Roman imperial burials, it was perhaps even more important to Hadrian. 
2:  A Historical Reconstruction of Hadrianeum
As The adopted son of Trajan, and also born during the reign of Vespasian, Hadrian was only a generation removed from some of the greatest ancient Roman structures, such as the Coliseum .  Born into a tradition of creating grandiose and eleaborate monuments, Hadrian’s burial site would be forced to compete with those of his predecessors and to contend with the potential creations of his successors.   It is apparent that Hadrian wanted to call attention to himself through his memorial because of its location.  By tradition, the dead in ancient times were buried outside the city walls in an area typically known as the necropolis (“city of the dead”).  But Hadrianeum’s unusual proximity to the flood prone Tiber River and its location in the ager vaticanus (“the Vatican Fields” which at the time was a Christian necropolis, or the Fields of Nero, which later became known collectively as the “Borgo”) proved to be uniquely related to a rival monument.  The Mausoleum of Augustus, which had been the burial site for emperors from Augustus up to Hadrian, was positioned in a similarly flood prone area up the river in a prominent location.  It is apparent that Hadrian used the Mausoleum of Augustus as an inspiration for his own memorial.  The outermost cylindrical wall of the Mausoleum of Augustus is 87 meters in diameter and 12 meters tall, while that of Hadrianeum is 86.30 meters and 12 meters respectively.  Of course, Hadrianeum surpassed the Mausoleum of Augustus architecturally and was more complex.  It consisted of a series of walls and ramps which was, most fundamentally, a square base with two cylindrical levels situated in the center and tangent to the base.  The building was covered by what is thought to have been Parian (or possibly Luna) marble and decorated by elaborate marble (although there is some confusion between historians as to whether they were actually marble or gilded bronze) statues of men and horses and an evergreen garden on the roof.  On the interior, Hadrianeum was originally quite solid, navigable only by an elaborate series of ramps and vaulted chambers which served it well as a burial site.  Also important is Hadrian’s construction of a bridge to the site, the Pons Aelius, which served to perpetuate the memorial by creating another route out of the city and across the river.  This ensured that people would continue to interact with the site long after Hadrian’s death. 
3:  A top down look at Hadrianeum and the Pons Aelius
4:  Augustus's Mausoleum, which served as a model for Hadrian
Hadrianeum’s location outside of the city began to prove even more crucial as Rome’s days of empire began to fade, and the city fell prone to plunder and attack.  By 217, the complex had fallen into the hands of the state (in part due to its large upkeep expenses).  It was in this year that Emperor Aurelius constructed his noted series of walls, which were intended to protect the city from external attack.  Due to its sheer size and durability, Hadrianeum was included as part of the Aurelian wall in 271 which marks its first historically documented transformation toward military use.  For the next thousand years, all of Rome experienced a millennial decline, and, as such, so did Hadrianeum.  The contents of the tombs were raided by the end of the fifth century after the fall of imperial Rome, most likely by Goths.  In the sixth century, after the Goths had conquered Rome, Totila converted Hadrianeum into a veritable bastion for the defense of Rome.  Realizing the military significance of the location and the need to protect Rome from invasion in a time of political uncertainty, Hadrianeum was fortified.  Because over time, the Aurelian walls proved insufficient and indefensible, the defense strategy was reevaluated.  Because of  the expansive circumference of the Aurelian Wall, military leaders were forced to refocus their efforts to a smaller more concentrated area of Rome. 
Topographically, the hills of Rome made the “Borgo” area between Hadrianeum and the Vatican fields a very strategic area—because of the way incoming armies would approach the city, if the Borgo could be defended, so could the city of Rome.  Over the next 500 years, fortifications were developed, destroyed, and redeveloped around the area of the Borgo, employing Hadrianeum as a fortress.  Physical modifications were limited primarily to military modifications to the castle to allow quartering of troops there and the construction of a wall around the Borgo with additional external fortifications at the site of Castel Sant’Angelo.  By the 9th century, Charlemange had also occupied Rome and he improved upon the existing fortification in the Borgo, where he was staying, including the newly created Vatican Basilica. 
Late in the sixth century, Pope Gregory the Great reportedly saw an apparition of the Archangel Michael on top of Hadrianeum.  During this time, Rome was experiencing a severe plague, which subsided shortly after Pope Gregory’s encounter with the St. Michael—the angelic commander of God’s army.  It is through this legendary encounter that the name of Hadrianeum gradually became Castel Sant’Angelo—which means the “Castle of the Holy Angel.”  And, certainly the papacy had grown interested in the Castel Sant’Angelo.  Because of its proximity to the Vatican fields—an early Christian burial site—many clergy members and pilgrims commuted from the Latern (the early home of the Church) to the Vatican via the Pons Aelius, past Castel Sant’Angelo.  Castel Sant’Angelo and the Vatican were really on one property in terms of fortification, whoever controlled one also controlled the other.  Thus, the popes had a vested interest in being able to access their important Christian pilgrimage sites. 
5:  The Current Angel Atop the Castel
Over the years, the popes became interested in the site not only because of its convenient location but also because of the leverage yielded by controlling such a crucial location for the security of Rome—and in this case, control meant power. By the 1000s, Rome entered a period of rule by the elite and Castel Sant’Angelo changed hands almost continuously until the 14th century when it finally fell into the hands of the papacy for good.  After centuries of disputes, enraged Roman citizen took out their anger on the fortress nearly destroying it in April 1379, which marked the beginning of a period of significant improvements to Castel Sant’Angelo by the Church.
During the Renaissance period, the Castle underwent many changes as a result of the papacy.  In 1527, a large Protestant army invaded Rome and forced Pope Clement VII to flee from the St. Peter’s to Castel Sant’Angelo via the Passetto di Borgo.  Outnumbered, Clement was forced to reside in the Castel Sant’Angelo for months until the occupation ended.  In the aftermath of the reformation, Clement’s successor, Paul III Farnese, performed a series of notable upgrades to the Castel Sant’Angelo—renovations to living areas and papal apartments—in case such a fate were ever to reoccur.  Paul III also attempted to renovate the Roman city wall system to provide defense to the entire city, but this ultimately failed after realizing that Rome could be defended by simply fortifying the Borgo.
6:  A Present Day View of the Passetto di Borgo
Beginning in the 16th century, one of the primary functions of the Castel Sant’Angelo was as a prison and execution site.  Everyone from common prisoners to such freethinkers as Giordano Bruno to foreigners such as Leo Africanus (al-Hasan al-Wazzan) were kept.
By 1870 Castel Sant’Angelo fell into disuse after the unification of Italy and the construction of retaining walls for the banks of the Tiber.  At this time restoration work began in a move for historical preservation and appreciation and the use of conventional military techniques, which rendered a castle outmoded.  By the early 1900s, Castel Sant’Angelo had been fully converted into a museum which it still functions to this day.
The most surprising thing about Castel Sant’Angelo to me was its historicity and sense of eternality.  Rome is known as the “Eternal City” and I think there could not be a better symbol of that eternality and sense of interaction with history than Castel Sant’Angelo.  With its distinctive ties to the most important periods in Roman history, the castle serves as a living representation of Rome.  From its use during ancient times as a great monument to serving as a medieval bastion to a papal fortress, Castel Sant’Angelo is a timeless memorial to an important historical legacy.

Bibliography


Alloisi, Luisa Cardilli, and Maria Grazia Tolomeo Speranza. La Via Degli Angeli: Il Restauro Della Decorazione Scultorea Di Ponte Sant'Angelo. Rome: De Luca Edizioni D'Arte S.p.A., 1988. Print.


Boatwright, Mary Taliaferro. Hadrian and the City of Rome. Princeton, N.J.: Princeton UP, 1987. Print.


Borgatti, Mariano. Castel Sant'Angelo in Roma: Storia E Descrizione. Roma: C. Voghera, 1890. HathiTrust Digital Library. Web. 27 June 2010.


Davis, Penelope J.E. "The Phoenix and the Flames: Death, Rebirth and the Imperial Landscape of Rome." Mortality 5.3 (2000): 237-58. EBSCO. Web. 28 June 2010.


D'Onofrio, Cesare. How to Visit Castel S. Angelo: in the History of Rome and the Papacy. Rome: Romana Società Editrice, 1986. Print.


Rowland, S. Pierce. "The Mausoleum of Hadrian and the Pons Aelius." The Journal of Roman Studies 15 (1925): 75-103. JSTOR. Web. 27 June 2010

Friday, June 18, 2010

Day 1

It's been a very long week.  After staying up until 6 am Wednesday morning before my flight, I woke up at 7:30 am and left my house at 8:15 am.  Finally, I arrived at the airport after making a few stops with my mom who drove me.  My flight to Amsterdam left Seattle-Tacoma at 12:55 pm but was delayed nearly an hour due to debris on the taxi way and an error in the crew manifest paperwork.  While on the plane, I tried unsuccessfully to sleep and watched the movie Precious.  The nice flight attendants also welcomed me to some extra snacks in the galley to the aft of the aircraft.  I was lucky enough to have a window seat and took some pictures of the ice bergs in the North Atlantic, Greenland, the snow in Iceland, Scotland, the Straight of Dover, and the North Sea.
Accompanied by Sarah, Yuting, and Erik, we arrived in Amsterdam sleepless and late for our connection to Rome on KLM.  Bryan was also supposed to be on our flight, but, unfortunately he was in an automobile accident on his way to the airport in Seattle.  After rushing through customs and hurrying to our gate, we barely made the flight to Rome. The KLM flight to Rome was short and sweet and the first taste of Europe...the languages were Dutch and English and there were also many Italians on the plane.
We landed in Rome on Thursday around 11:55 am, on time.  After changing currency (for a horrible rate at Travelex) and walking downstairs with the group, we sat waiting for i baggagli until we realized that they were not going to be coming off the carousel.  So, we all lost our bags between Amsterdam and Rome and had a very interesting time at the Alitalia baggage claim service window.  Long story short we walked out of Rome Fiumicino bagless and tired.  We caught a cab together and were able to only pay 10 Euros each on our way to Piazza del Biscione where the Rome Center is located.  Our cab ride was certainly memorable and a very terse yet valuable introduction to the insanity of driving in Italy.  It was quite the experience.
We spent some time trying to figure out how to open the doors of the Rome Center building which were conspicuously Italian and have gigantic bolts on them.  The big door is called the portone and the name really suits it.  After checking in and looking around, we walked over to the apartment and got settled briefly and did the necessary facebook check.  We attended a short introductory meeting, went to the cell phone store, went to the soap store, and went to the grocery store (where I was royally ripped off on a box of Special K "Fruti Rossi" and "Latte Fresco").  I fell asleep around 6 o'clock after arriving back from the store and got up briefly during the night.

Monday, May 3, 2010

Anticipation

I am extremely excited and privileged to have the opportunity to travel to Italy and Turkey this summer with the UW Honors Program.  My trip will begin when I leave for Amsterdam on June 16th and end when I arrive back in Seattle on July 21st.  


In Rome, I will be staying in an apartment with fellow students near the UW Rome Center (http://depts.washington.edu/roma/)  which is located on the Campo de'Fiori, near Piazza Navona.  Campo de'Fiori literally means "field of flowers" in Italian, so named because, during the Middle Ages, it was an empty meadow in between Pompey's Theatre and the Tiber River.


During my last week, I will travel to Istanbul--which is the fifth largest city in the world (fifth only to Shanghai, Mumbai, Karachi, and Delhi) and the only metropolis to be situated on two continents.  Recently, there have been growing tensions between the Islamic government and a group of military leaders who have been implicated in a secularist coup.  I really have no idea of what to expect in Turkey.  


I'm excited and nervous about the trip for ton of reasons (which I think is normal).  Both places are going to be great for taking pictures and I hope to share as much of my trip as possible through film (or I guess, in an unromantically modern way, SD cards and Facebook)!


In the meantime, I have to go finish the last few weeks of Spring Quarter...